Imported figured textiles from the Belorechensky burial ground in the collection of the State Hermitage Museum

Purpose of the study: The attribution and dating of figured textiles from the Belorechensky burial ground (North Caucasus), study of manufacturing techniques, reconstruction of textile patterns and study of historical aspects related to the problem of the supply and existence of these silks in the r...

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Main Author: Teplyakova A.N.
Format: Article
Language:English
Published: Tatarstan Academy of Sciences, Marjani Institute of History 2024-09-01
Series:Золотоордынское обозрение
Subjects:
Online Access:http://goldhorde.ru/en/stati2024-3-4/
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author Teplyakova A.N.
author_facet Teplyakova A.N.
author_sort Teplyakova A.N.
collection DOAJ
description Purpose of the study: The attribution and dating of figured textiles from the Belorechensky burial ground (North Caucasus), study of manufacturing techniques, reconstruction of textile patterns and study of historical aspects related to the problem of the supply and existence of these silks in the region. Research materials: The collection of archaeological materials from the Belorechensky burial ground (collection of the Oriental Department of the State Hermitage) including 22 figured textiles (52 inventory no.), textiles from collections of other institutions (Metropolitan Museum, Victoria and Albert Museum, Cleveland Museum of Art, etc.). Results and scientific novelty of the study: Of the 87 examples of textiles, embroidery, needlework, and threads, 22 examples are related to silk figured textiles. According to the technique, they are divided into velvets, damasks, lampases, and taffeta with pattern weft. Most of the textiles can be associated with the Syro-Egyptian weaving tradition of the 14th-15th centuries. However, there are several examples of Chinese and Italian production, and one damask, the technical features of which make it related not only to Italian and Syro-Egyptian, but also to early 16th century Safavid textiles. In this regard, the dating of the mounds from which these textiles originate was examined and clarified; issues of trade in the Northern Black Sea region were touched upon, as well as non-economic ways of the appearance of high-status imported products.
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issn 2308-152X
2313-6197
language English
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series Золотоордынское обозрение
spelling doaj-art-d6b0cb2bc61e4c85b45b830455fc68912025-02-03T06:10:36ZengTatarstan Academy of Sciences, Marjani Institute of HistoryЗолотоордынское обозрение2308-152X2313-61972024-09-0112354057510.22378/2313-6197.2024-12-3.540-575Imported figured textiles from the Belorechensky burial ground in the collection of the State Hermitage MuseumTeplyakova A.N.0https://orcid.org/0000-0002-5460-8009The State Hermitage Museum St. Peterburg, Russian Federation teplyakova@hermitage.ruPurpose of the study: The attribution and dating of figured textiles from the Belorechensky burial ground (North Caucasus), study of manufacturing techniques, reconstruction of textile patterns and study of historical aspects related to the problem of the supply and existence of these silks in the region. Research materials: The collection of archaeological materials from the Belorechensky burial ground (collection of the Oriental Department of the State Hermitage) including 22 figured textiles (52 inventory no.), textiles from collections of other institutions (Metropolitan Museum, Victoria and Albert Museum, Cleveland Museum of Art, etc.). Results and scientific novelty of the study: Of the 87 examples of textiles, embroidery, needlework, and threads, 22 examples are related to silk figured textiles. According to the technique, they are divided into velvets, damasks, lampases, and taffeta with pattern weft. Most of the textiles can be associated with the Syro-Egyptian weaving tradition of the 14th-15th centuries. However, there are several examples of Chinese and Italian production, and one damask, the technical features of which make it related not only to Italian and Syro-Egyptian, but also to early 16th century Safavid textiles. In this regard, the dating of the mounds from which these textiles originate was examined and clarified; issues of trade in the Northern Black Sea region were touched upon, as well as non-economic ways of the appearance of high-status imported products.http://goldhorde.ru/en/stati2024-3-4/belorechensky burial groundsilklampasvelvetdamasktaffetavenicegenoamamluk sultanate
spellingShingle Teplyakova A.N.
Imported figured textiles from the Belorechensky burial ground in the collection of the State Hermitage Museum
Золотоордынское обозрение
belorechensky burial ground
silk
lampas
velvet
damask
taffeta
venice
genoa
mamluk sultanate
title Imported figured textiles from the Belorechensky burial ground in the collection of the State Hermitage Museum
title_full Imported figured textiles from the Belorechensky burial ground in the collection of the State Hermitage Museum
title_fullStr Imported figured textiles from the Belorechensky burial ground in the collection of the State Hermitage Museum
title_full_unstemmed Imported figured textiles from the Belorechensky burial ground in the collection of the State Hermitage Museum
title_short Imported figured textiles from the Belorechensky burial ground in the collection of the State Hermitage Museum
title_sort imported figured textiles from the belorechensky burial ground in the collection of the state hermitage museum
topic belorechensky burial ground
silk
lampas
velvet
damask
taffeta
venice
genoa
mamluk sultanate
url http://goldhorde.ru/en/stati2024-3-4/
work_keys_str_mv AT teplyakovaan importedfiguredtextilesfromthebelorechenskyburialgroundinthecollectionofthestatehermitagemuseum