Sustainable Skincare Innovation: Cork Powder Extracts as Active Ingredients for Skin Aging

<b>Background</b>: An emerging practice within the concept of circular beauty involves the upcycling of agro-industrial by-products. Cork processing, for instance, yields by-products like cork powder, which presents an opportunity to create value-added cosmetic ingredients. Building upon...

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Main Authors: Ana Silva, Cláudia Pinto, Sara Cravo, Sandra Mota, Liliana Rego, Smeera Ratanji, Clara Quintas, Joana Rocha e Silva, Carlos Afonso, Maria Elizabeth Tiritan, Honorina Cidade, Teresa Cruz, Isabel F. Almeida
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Language:English
Published: MDPI AG 2025-01-01
Series:Pharmaceuticals
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Online Access:https://www.mdpi.com/1424-8247/18/1/121
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author Ana Silva
Cláudia Pinto
Sara Cravo
Sandra Mota
Liliana Rego
Smeera Ratanji
Clara Quintas
Joana Rocha e Silva
Carlos Afonso
Maria Elizabeth Tiritan
Honorina Cidade
Teresa Cruz
Isabel F. Almeida
author_facet Ana Silva
Cláudia Pinto
Sara Cravo
Sandra Mota
Liliana Rego
Smeera Ratanji
Clara Quintas
Joana Rocha e Silva
Carlos Afonso
Maria Elizabeth Tiritan
Honorina Cidade
Teresa Cruz
Isabel F. Almeida
author_sort Ana Silva
collection DOAJ
description <b>Background</b>: An emerging practice within the concept of circular beauty involves the upcycling of agro-industrial by-products. Cork processing, for instance, yields by-products like cork powder, which presents an opportunity to create value-added cosmetic ingredients. Building upon our previous research, demonstrating the antioxidant potential of hydroalcoholic extracts derived from two distinct cork powders (P0 and P1), in this work, aqueous extracts were prepared and analyzed. The safety and bioactivities of the newly obtained aqueous extracts, as well as the 30% ethanol extracts, previously reported to be the most promising for skin application, were also evaluated. <b>Methods</b>: Aqueous extracts were obtained from cork powders (P0 and P1) and the identification and quantification of some polyphenols was achieved by liquid chromatography (LC). Antioxidant potential was screened by DPPH method and the bioactivity and safety of extracts were further explored using cell-based assays. <b>Results</b>: All extracts exhibited a reduction in age-related markers, including senescence-associated beta-galactosidase (SA-β-gal) activity. Additionally, they demonstrated a pronounced anti-inflammatory effect by suppressing the production of several pro-inflammatory mediators in macrophages upon lipopolysaccharide stimulation. Moreover, the extracts upregulated genes and proteins associated with antioxidant activity, such as heme oxygenase 1. The aqueous extract from P1 powder was especially active in reducing pro-inflammatory mediators, namely the <i>Nos2</i> gene, inducible nitric oxide protein levels, and nitric oxide production. Moreover, it did not induce skin irritation, as assessed by the EpiSkin test, in compliance with the OECD Test Guidelines. <b>Conclusions</b>: Overall, our findings underscore the potential of aqueous extracts derived from cork waste streams to mitigate various hallmarks of skin aging, including senescence and inflammaging, and their suitability for incorporation into cosmetics formulations. These results warrant further exploration for their application in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries and could foster a sustainable and circular bioeconomy.
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spelling doaj-art-d7a9965eee004e70980718a13c557de02025-01-24T13:45:28ZengMDPI AGPharmaceuticals1424-82472025-01-0118112110.3390/ph18010121Sustainable Skincare Innovation: Cork Powder Extracts as Active Ingredients for Skin AgingAna Silva0Cláudia Pinto1Sara Cravo2Sandra Mota3Liliana Rego4Smeera Ratanji5Clara Quintas6Joana Rocha e Silva7Carlos Afonso8Maria Elizabeth Tiritan9Honorina Cidade10Teresa Cruz11Isabel F. Almeida12Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Coimbra, 3000-548 Coimbra, PortugalLaboratory of Organic and Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Department of Chemical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, Rua Jorge Viterbo Ferreira 228, 4050-313 Porto, PortugalLaboratory of Organic and Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Department of Chemical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, Rua Jorge Viterbo Ferreira 228, 4050-313 Porto, PortugalUCIBIO—Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, R. Jorge Viterbo Ferreira 228, 4050-313 Porto, PortugalUCIBIO—Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, R. Jorge Viterbo Ferreira 228, 4050-313 Porto, PortugalAssociate Laboratory i4HB—Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, R. Jorge Viterbo Ferreira 228, 4050-313 Porto, PortugalAssociate Laboratory i4HB—Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, R. Jorge Viterbo Ferreira 228, 4050-313 Porto, PortugalDimas & Silva, Lda. Industry, Rua Central de Goda 345, 4535-167 Mozelos, PortugalLaboratory of Organic and Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Department of Chemical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, Rua Jorge Viterbo Ferreira 228, 4050-313 Porto, PortugalLaboratory of Organic and Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Department of Chemical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, Rua Jorge Viterbo Ferreira 228, 4050-313 Porto, PortugalLaboratory of Organic and Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Department of Chemical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, Rua Jorge Viterbo Ferreira 228, 4050-313 Porto, PortugalFaculty of Pharmacy, University of Coimbra, 3000-548 Coimbra, PortugalUCIBIO—Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, R. Jorge Viterbo Ferreira 228, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal<b>Background</b>: An emerging practice within the concept of circular beauty involves the upcycling of agro-industrial by-products. Cork processing, for instance, yields by-products like cork powder, which presents an opportunity to create value-added cosmetic ingredients. Building upon our previous research, demonstrating the antioxidant potential of hydroalcoholic extracts derived from two distinct cork powders (P0 and P1), in this work, aqueous extracts were prepared and analyzed. The safety and bioactivities of the newly obtained aqueous extracts, as well as the 30% ethanol extracts, previously reported to be the most promising for skin application, were also evaluated. <b>Methods</b>: Aqueous extracts were obtained from cork powders (P0 and P1) and the identification and quantification of some polyphenols was achieved by liquid chromatography (LC). Antioxidant potential was screened by DPPH method and the bioactivity and safety of extracts were further explored using cell-based assays. <b>Results</b>: All extracts exhibited a reduction in age-related markers, including senescence-associated beta-galactosidase (SA-β-gal) activity. Additionally, they demonstrated a pronounced anti-inflammatory effect by suppressing the production of several pro-inflammatory mediators in macrophages upon lipopolysaccharide stimulation. Moreover, the extracts upregulated genes and proteins associated with antioxidant activity, such as heme oxygenase 1. The aqueous extract from P1 powder was especially active in reducing pro-inflammatory mediators, namely the <i>Nos2</i> gene, inducible nitric oxide protein levels, and nitric oxide production. Moreover, it did not induce skin irritation, as assessed by the EpiSkin test, in compliance with the OECD Test Guidelines. <b>Conclusions</b>: Overall, our findings underscore the potential of aqueous extracts derived from cork waste streams to mitigate various hallmarks of skin aging, including senescence and inflammaging, and their suitability for incorporation into cosmetics formulations. These results warrant further exploration for their application in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries and could foster a sustainable and circular bioeconomy.https://www.mdpi.com/1424-8247/18/1/121cosmeticscork extractsskin agingsustainabilitysenescenceinflammaging
spellingShingle Ana Silva
Cláudia Pinto
Sara Cravo
Sandra Mota
Liliana Rego
Smeera Ratanji
Clara Quintas
Joana Rocha e Silva
Carlos Afonso
Maria Elizabeth Tiritan
Honorina Cidade
Teresa Cruz
Isabel F. Almeida
Sustainable Skincare Innovation: Cork Powder Extracts as Active Ingredients for Skin Aging
Pharmaceuticals
cosmetics
cork extracts
skin aging
sustainability
senescence
inflammaging
title Sustainable Skincare Innovation: Cork Powder Extracts as Active Ingredients for Skin Aging
title_full Sustainable Skincare Innovation: Cork Powder Extracts as Active Ingredients for Skin Aging
title_fullStr Sustainable Skincare Innovation: Cork Powder Extracts as Active Ingredients for Skin Aging
title_full_unstemmed Sustainable Skincare Innovation: Cork Powder Extracts as Active Ingredients for Skin Aging
title_short Sustainable Skincare Innovation: Cork Powder Extracts as Active Ingredients for Skin Aging
title_sort sustainable skincare innovation cork powder extracts as active ingredients for skin aging
topic cosmetics
cork extracts
skin aging
sustainability
senescence
inflammaging
url https://www.mdpi.com/1424-8247/18/1/121
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