Experimental and Numerical Studies on Wave Breaking Characteristics over a Fringing Reef under Monochromatic Wave Conditions
Fringing reefs play an important role in protecting the coastal area by inducing wave breaking and wave energy dissipation. However, modeling of wave transformation and energy dissipation on this topography is still difficult due to the unique structure. In the present study, two-dimensional laborat...
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| Format: | Article |
| Language: | English |
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Wiley
2014-01-01
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| Series: | The Scientific World Journal |
| Online Access: | http://dx.doi.org/10.1155/2014/570325 |
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| author | Jong-In Lee Sungwon Shin Young-Taek Kim |
| author_facet | Jong-In Lee Sungwon Shin Young-Taek Kim |
| author_sort | Jong-In Lee |
| collection | DOAJ |
| description | Fringing reefs play an important role in protecting the coastal area by inducing wave breaking and wave energy dissipation. However, modeling of wave transformation and energy dissipation on this topography is still difficult due to the unique structure. In the present study, two-dimensional laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate the cross-shore variations of wave transformation, setup, and breaking phenomena over an idealized fringing reef with the 1/40 reef slope and to verify the Boussinesq model under monochromatic wave conditions. One-layer and two-layer model configurations of the Boussinesq model were used to figure out the model capability. Both models predicted well (r2>0.8) the cross-shore variation of the wave heights, crests, troughs, and setups when the nonlinearity is not too high (A0/h0<0.07 in this study). However, as the wave nonlinearity and steepness increase, the one-layer model showed problems in prediction and stability due to the error on the vertical profile of fluid velocity. The results in this study revealed that one-layer model is not suitable in the highly nonlinear wave condition over a fringing reef bathymetry. This data set can contribute to the numerical model verification. |
| format | Article |
| id | doaj-art-1b9b3606a6aa45248488636f4cbc9f16 |
| institution | Kabale University |
| issn | 2356-6140 1537-744X |
| language | English |
| publishDate | 2014-01-01 |
| publisher | Wiley |
| record_format | Article |
| series | The Scientific World Journal |
| spelling | doaj-art-1b9b3606a6aa45248488636f4cbc9f162025-02-03T01:22:47ZengWileyThe Scientific World Journal2356-61401537-744X2014-01-01201410.1155/2014/570325570325Experimental and Numerical Studies on Wave Breaking Characteristics over a Fringing Reef under Monochromatic Wave ConditionsJong-In Lee0Sungwon Shin1Young-Taek Kim2Department of Marine and Civil Engineering, Chonnam National University, 50 Daehak-ro, Yeosu, Jeonnam 500-749, Republic of KoreaExperimental Center for Coastal & Harbor Engineering, Chonnam National University, 50 Daehak-ro, Yeosu, Jeonnam 500-749, Republic of KoreaRiver and Coastal Research Division, Korea Institute of Construction Technology, Goyang-si, Gyeonggi-do 411-712, Republic of KoreaFringing reefs play an important role in protecting the coastal area by inducing wave breaking and wave energy dissipation. However, modeling of wave transformation and energy dissipation on this topography is still difficult due to the unique structure. In the present study, two-dimensional laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate the cross-shore variations of wave transformation, setup, and breaking phenomena over an idealized fringing reef with the 1/40 reef slope and to verify the Boussinesq model under monochromatic wave conditions. One-layer and two-layer model configurations of the Boussinesq model were used to figure out the model capability. Both models predicted well (r2>0.8) the cross-shore variation of the wave heights, crests, troughs, and setups when the nonlinearity is not too high (A0/h0<0.07 in this study). However, as the wave nonlinearity and steepness increase, the one-layer model showed problems in prediction and stability due to the error on the vertical profile of fluid velocity. The results in this study revealed that one-layer model is not suitable in the highly nonlinear wave condition over a fringing reef bathymetry. This data set can contribute to the numerical model verification.http://dx.doi.org/10.1155/2014/570325 |
| spellingShingle | Jong-In Lee Sungwon Shin Young-Taek Kim Experimental and Numerical Studies on Wave Breaking Characteristics over a Fringing Reef under Monochromatic Wave Conditions The Scientific World Journal |
| title | Experimental and Numerical Studies on Wave Breaking Characteristics over a Fringing Reef under Monochromatic Wave Conditions |
| title_full | Experimental and Numerical Studies on Wave Breaking Characteristics over a Fringing Reef under Monochromatic Wave Conditions |
| title_fullStr | Experimental and Numerical Studies on Wave Breaking Characteristics over a Fringing Reef under Monochromatic Wave Conditions |
| title_full_unstemmed | Experimental and Numerical Studies on Wave Breaking Characteristics over a Fringing Reef under Monochromatic Wave Conditions |
| title_short | Experimental and Numerical Studies on Wave Breaking Characteristics over a Fringing Reef under Monochromatic Wave Conditions |
| title_sort | experimental and numerical studies on wave breaking characteristics over a fringing reef under monochromatic wave conditions |
| url | http://dx.doi.org/10.1155/2014/570325 |
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